The storefront is a mishmash of worn but sturdy cardboard boxes, each filled with a homogeneous brown pastry. Names are hand written in Chinese characters with direct to English translations on repurposed bits of paper, reinforced with stiff board and weatherproofed with clear cellophane plastic.
On the flanks are metal wire shelves, likewise brimming with even more pastries and cookies, this time a slight variance in colour from light brown, to yellow and white. Amidst the sea of khaki delights, a few brightly coloured ones stand out, adding a dash of brilliance to the otherwise earthly atmosphere.
A friendly elderly cashier sits behind the counter, throwing out helpful suggestions to the uninitiated on which confection to try. The store accepts only cash but as a nod to the digital age, payments via Paylah! And Paynow are also available. This is Tan Hock Seng, one of the oldest bakeries in Singapore, and its humble pastries have been filling the tummies of Singaporeans for 9 decades.
Started by Mr Tan Tiam in 1931, Tan Hock Seng first opened shop in China Street, followed by a short spell at Upper Pickering Street before finally nestling into its current location at Far East Square along Telok Ayer Street. The bakery specialises in Hokkien pastries, and the more than 40 varieties available is a testament to the capabilities of 3rd generation owners, Mr Tan Boon Chai and Ms Tan Siew Heoh.
For 90 years, customers of Tan Hock Seng have savoured the freshly baked confectionaries, especially best sellers like Beh Teh Saw ($5/- for a row of five pieces), Pong Piah and Tau Sar Piah ($4/- per piece). Some even claim that Tan Hock Seng’s Beh Teh Saw is the best in Singapore. And it probably is. Because only by serving the best would it have won over the discerning palates of Singaporeans and survived through the years. Even today, with nearly no digital presence and independently written accolades largely from food review websites, the name Tan Hock Seng still resonates amongst Singaporeans of all ages.
And perhaps the best kept secret of all – Tan Hock Seng makes the best Snowskin Mooncakes (4 for $48/- without egg yolk, $52/- with 1 egg yolk) . Unique amongst the snowskin variety, this version maintains its soft texture even when chilled and can be eaten fresh out of the refrigerator without having to wait for it to soften up. The mochi texture of the snowskin wrap melds seamlessly with the savoury lotus seed paste upon first bite, leaving an addicting blend of chewy sweetness in the mouth.
It is an insurmountable challenge not to simply gulp the entire mooncake down in one sitting, which is why the conventional way is to cut them up into slices, to mask the fact that these pieces of heavenly goodness eventually disappear as swiftly as they are being served. True to form as a traditional bakery, even the mooncake prices are but a fraction of those being sold at top hotel chains.
Sadly, all is about to end for Tan Hock Seng. A perfect storm of ever increasing rentals, renovation costs and aging workers have forced the owners to contemplate closing for good. Already given a lease extension which ends in October 2021, Tan Hock Seng will be vacating the current premises at Far East Square with no inkling as to whether it will reopen at another location. Aging manpower, rental costs are prime concerns for Mr Tan Boon Chai as he mulls retirement.
As another local heritage brand teeters on the brink, one can’t help but wonder – Can anything be done to save Tan Hock Seng? As with all good intentions, it cannot be forced and must be given with a willing recipient. For now, enjoy the scrumptious childhood snacks, delectable mooncakes and show support to a humble bakery shop that has filled the stomachs and charmed the hearts of Singaporeans since 1931.
Tan Hock Seng
Address: Far East Square, 86 Telok Ayer St, #01-01, Singapore 048469
Opening Hours: Monday – Saturday (9.00am – 7.30pm) | Sunday (12.30pm – 3.30pm)
This article was brought to you by Ah Tan.
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